Visiting Sonder is as comfortable as those sofas near the front door. It's good food in a relaxing atmosphere at a fair price, though it would be wise to make reservations, especially on a weekend night if you don't want to be shunted to a high-top near the bar.

The menu, as at many fine restaurants, is always being tweaked though some of their all-stars such as the brined fried chicken and the bruschetta platter, to name two of our favorites, are not on the endangered species list.

Pete Tittl's Dining Out column appears in The Californian on Sundays. Email him at pftittl@yahoo.com or follow him on Twitter: @pftittl.