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Camino Real still serving up winners

CAMINO: Mix of Mexican, Chinese tastes impressive

BY PETE TITTL, Contributing columnist
ptittl@bakersfield.com | Wednesday, Jul 29 2009 07:50 PM

Last Updated Wednesday, Jul 29 2009 07:52 PM

Last year I raved big time about Camino Real and the energy of its young owner, Alejandro Ocampo. Though I've been back on my own, I haven't written about it since, other than to note it as a top Mexican pick on my best-of list last December.

However, reader Len Cloud thought it was worth another story because of the restaurant's evolution.

"We went for dinner on Saturday evening & I believe my personal quest for Bakersfield's complete, all-round best restaurant is over. My husband & I had the Trio Fajitas for Two & I can't even think of the words that can properly explain the unbelievable presentation, quantity, and quality of that dish! We can't wait to return!"

On a recent visit, Alejandro himself thanked us for stopping by despite the crowd. He's been renting out the back dining area for birthday parties and other family gatherings, where the customers dine from a buffet. Judging from the parking lot, you might have expected a Tahoe Joe's-sized wait but the dining room in the front was about two-thirds full and we were seated immediately. The menu is much slicker now, the restaurant operation more fine-tuned. But Ocampo still gets a lot of his recipes from family members, particularly his mom, including my entree, the calabasitas ($12.95), grilled pork chops with a red chili sauce and sauteed zucchini.

Some may wonder why zucchini, but I think any day is a good day for zucchini (when your garden comes in, just send them my way.) The red chili sauce has bite without too much heat, and is a nice complement to the pork. It's one of those dishes that is so inspired, so perfect in its simplicity and its preparations that you have a hard time not ordering it next time you visit.

One of my companions ordered the chicken jalisco ($13.95), made with pineapple spears and a sweet-hot red chili sauce, startling but comforting at the same time. My companion selected the fresh-cut sweet potato fries on the side and had trouble keeping us away from her plate.

My other companion ordered a favorite from our first visit, the orange chicken signature burrito ($10.95), which is something of a fusion creation. My biggest complaint this time was that the kitchen didn't fold the burrito tightly, so it was pretty much falling apart on my companion's plate.

The startling mix of Mexican and Chinese tastes and textures was just as impressive as it was last year.

Tempting choices we didn't get to try this time included something called "real carne asada" ($19.95) or the "traditional" version. Few restaurants have two different versions of that classic. (Owner Ocampo explained that the "real" was what was served at his wedding, a thicker cut, with the traditional being the more familiar thinner cut.)

As a plus, there were mariachis playing throughout the room on this Saturday night. And I do have to mention that the vegetarian section of the menu is quite extensive. For negatives, I'm not a big fan of the salsa, which seems out of balance: too much tomato, not enough onion and cilantro. But maybe I've just been trained by all the other restaurants. But that's about it. Service was upbeat and professional.

Camino Real can be recommended for a fine dining experience.