Bakersfield.com: Kern County news, events, classifieds, shopping, & search

Pete Tittl: El Pueblo muy bien, homemade tortillas or not

The Bakersfield Californian | Tuesday, Aug 25 2009 05:39 PM

Last Updated Tuesday, Aug 25 2009 05:40 PM

By PETE TITTL

Contributing columnist

e-mail: ptittl@bakersfield.com

It's interesting to watch the evolution of a city's restaurants if you stay long enough. Back in the '70s restaurants like Bill Lee's, Rice Bowl, Mexicali, Freddie's Top of the Hill, The Coachlight Inn and Tam O'Shanter were the shining stars. When the chain El Torito came to town and stirred things up, joined by The Red Pepper on Baker Street, things changed on the Mexican restaurant scene.

One of the odder developments occurred in Lamont in 1982 when the Aguilar family opened a tiny restaurant in what was almost a shack on Main Street and called it El Jacalito. It was a word-of-mouth success, known for its authentic food, fresh-made tortillas (still a rarity at the time in Kern County restaurants) and fair prices. The problem wasn't the drive, it was the size. Yet customers would still wait patiently against the wall or in the parking lot outside for that food. Life was good.

After 10 years there was a lease dispute and the Aguilars moved their business just north, to a location that had a small motel court (if you consumed too many margaritas and couldn't drive back, I guess).

Unfortunately the El Jacalito name for some reason stayed with the building so the new place took the name El Pueblo, which it has to this day.

You might think, if you were one of those loyal customers from back in the '80s, that the expansion of the El Jacalitos to Bakersfield is the revenge of the family, but the owners of El Pueblo, tired of hearing comments about that, put together an insert in their menu with a brief history of the family's restaurant business and a stern note that they have nothing to do with any of the Bakersfield restaurants with that name. I'm sure it has to irritate, given the contentious history of the disagreement.

Anyway, El Pueblo is still going strong in Lamont, still has an exceptionally friendly staff, satisfying and authentic meals and a menu so diverse that no one will mistake it for any other place.

Sadly, though, the fresh tortillas are gone. Luis Aguilar, son of the original owner, said people stopped asking for them. I don't have to tell you how good fresh made tortillas are -- they have the seductive charms of fresh-baked bread, especially the corn tortillas, which are more like pancakes than the rubbery discs you get in grocery stores.

But I got over my disappointment, because the food is so good. (The chili verde quesadilla is insanely great, just to name one favorite.) We finally went with the red and green enchiladas ($8.95) and the soft shell tacos Mexicanos ($10.95). You can get three tacos with that last entrée, and even choose one of each meat (carne asada, carnitas and chicken). Typical El Pueblo meal: You take one bite, rave, move on to the next thing, then declare that one even better.

The asada was spiced perfectly and not too tender, not too tough. The carnitas was firm, moist and not greasy. The chicken was similar to pit-style in its stringiness.

My companion's plate was just as impressive. As at the Red Pepper, the chili verde here is always good, with a perfect level of heat and a tenderness that suggests a slow cooking in the peppers. I have been a longtime fan of the chile Colorado here, which is sometimes bitter at other restaurants. El Pueblo's version has a sauce with nuance, suggestive of a good mole. Even little things like the rice are special, with carrots, corn, peas and green beans sprinkled in.

Service was small-town friendly as always. El Pueblo always seems to think of the customers as family, which was another reason that small shack was always packed.

With or without those great tortillas, El Pueblo can be recommended for a fine dining experience.