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Pete Tittl: Tequila! Agave has spirits and spirit

BY PETE TITTL, Contributing columniste-mail:
ptittl@bakersfield.com | Wednesday, Feb 03 2010 11:48 AM

Last Updated Wednesday, Feb 03 2010 11:48 AM

We begin this week's column with a moment of silence for Cazuelas Mary Grill and Bar on Oak Street. It passed away, unnoticed by me, late last year, and the location has now become the home of Agave Grill and Cantina. Cazuelas Mary was a type of place with a vibrant menu that featured things like mole verde pork chops or the types of casseroles owner Blanco Bernal remembered from her childhood. Her menu featured roasted peppers and a great Spanish sheep's milk cheese called manchego. That alone might frighten those who don't like to veer far from good ol' Monterey Jack, but the kitchen was a vibrant addition to our restaurant scene.

OK, I'll assume you've all paid your respects. I can't hold the departure of Cazuelas Mary against the new tenant, Agave, which has a different specialty entirely: tequila. In fact they brag they offer 90 different tequilas, and even make a nice stab at educating customers with a "Tequila 101" page on the menu that describes the five major types of tequilas. Admittedly this liquor is as complicated as Scotch and is getting more respect as the years go on, but I have not educated myself on its potential. This is mostly due to the fact that I'm one of those "one tequila, two tequila, three tequila, floor" type drinkers. No tolerance anymore. One of those things they need to warn young people about. You won't be able to drink when you get old. You'll be worthless and weak.

Owner Omar Ruiz said he's aiming to offer more than 100 different tequilas eventually. He had visited a tequila distillery in Mexico and said the atmosphere in the building (which he took over in December) reminded him of that. (He also owns La Mina Cantina on the east side and is partners with his dad on the La Mina at Oak and Palm.)

Thus I wasn't tempted by their $20 Super Margarita, something of a super drink (Don Julio Anejo, fresh lime juice, Patron Citronge) which is so large it includes a bottle of Pacifico in it. The menu says "You gotta see it to believe it." We asked our waitress and she said that somehow the beer gets consumed as you draw down the margarita. I'll be working on rounding up a large group of, say, a dozen weak sisters like me to take that beast on.

You might think this heavy emphasis on spirits is just a ploy to distract you from the food. Not so. While the menu is more conventional than its predecessor, it won't have you drowning your sorrows. On our first visit I ordered the Morro Bay chicken ($13), a grilled breast topped with ham, jack cheese (welcome back, old friend!) roasted peppers and grilled onions. For some reason I thought the peppers would be sweet red but they were green, medium spicy and a real key addition to the chicken. I'm glad that roasted vegetables are getting more popular, especially the fire-grilled variety, and on top of the chicken breast it was like an interesting variation on fajitas.

Another specialty is hand-rubbed tri-tip, which they use in tacos, burritos and on its own with rice and beans ($12). My companion tried it in a plate of tacos ($11) and was definitely impressed enough to order it again.

On a second visit we sampled the carnitas fritas ($11, chunky, non-greasy pork that was not stringy), the chile verde ($11, a hot version with an inviting, tart green gravy and very lean pork chunks) and the enchiladas mole ($12, made with grilled chicken). The mole in particular was interesting as it was huskier, less bitter and more nuanced with chocolate hints than many versions I've tried locally. I recently got an e-mail from a reader looking for a mole recommendation. I wouldn't hesitate to send them to Agave. Another specialty is hand-rubbed tri-tip, which they use in tacos, burritos and on its own with rice and beans ($12).

Service was fine on both occasions: personable, small-town friendly, eager to please. The restaurant was not busy yet, but I'm sure eventually it will be. Even with more conventional cheeses.