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Pete Tittl: The Q does barbecue to a T

BY PETE TITTL | Wednesday, Sep 09 2009 03:49 PM

Last Updated Wednesday, Sep 09 2009 03:52 PM

Contributing columnist

e-mail: ptittl@bakersfield.com

That tiny space on Rosedale Highway that was home to Sandoggies Gourmet Hot Dogs has been converted to The Q Rib Shack. And I think physical changes to this tiny space as well as a switch in the service concept may help this place survive.

I liked the emphasis on quality ingredients and sausages at Sandoggies, but parking was a problem and though there was a double drive-through, with everything cooked to order it just didn't seem practical to get a quick bite at breakfast and lunch. The Q has closed the lanes and takes orders from a table and cash register outside the tiny building, which serves as the kitchen/order assembly station. They added parking spaces in the back and a lot more wooden picnic tables (with big green umbrellas for shade).

And this is really food worth consuming at a decent price, with dinners only $9.99 each, and items like an a la carte half chicken for $4.99. There are two large barbecues outside, one that was active with an assortment of ribs and chicken cooking on it when we visited. We tried the tri-tip, the chicken, the beef ribs and the pulled pork and loved them all, so smoky was the meat (the woman taking orders said they use mesquite charcoal, oak and apple wood to create the unique taste). In fact if you bring it home, the food just sort of announces its appearance. We took it into the kitchen and our dogs in the backyard immediately put on their best behavior, hyper alert for whatever it was that we had in the house, convinced that gentlemanly canine behavior was the ticket to the table.

The tri-tip, sliced thin, was juicy but a bit steamy and washed out in taste, especially compared to the ribs and chicken. I chose the beef ribs instead of the pork, and the four included in my dinner were thick with meat, not too tough, not too soft. The chicken was nearly perfect, almost like smoked chicken. And the beans were special, with a nice brown muddy sauce spiked with bits of ground beef. Other sides include potato and macaroni salads as well as cole slaw. My companion loved her potato salad, noting the presence of mustard, onion and celery. The pulled pork wasn't bad, though not as incredible as what I've found at Famous Dave's and Champs.

There are burgers on the menu, but we'll save those for a future visit. The most interesting was the "Q" burger ($6.99), a half-pounder with a slice of tri-tip smothered with cheddar cheese. Cheese always makes it better. You can also get sandwiches made with the pulled pork, chicken or tri-tip.

The Q Rib Shack isn't much on atmosphere, but it does make for a fine dining experience, especially for the quick take-out meal when you have no time to cook.