Pete Tittl: IHOP doesn't have franchise on quality, as this cafe proves
| Tuesday, Feb 10 2009 08:10 PM
Last Updated Friday, Mar 27 2009 01:27 PM
Clay’s Restaurant
1530 California Ave., 323-1197
Hours:6 a.m. to 8 p.m. every da.
Prices:Breakfast combos $5.79 to $11.69, choice combos $5.89 to $7.69, omelets $6.49 to $9.29, pancakes and more $3.99 to $6.89, crepes $5.79 to $7.29, sandwiches and burgers $5.79 to $7.49, dinners $6.99 to $11.69, “munchies” $6.49 to $8.29, soup and salad $2.79 to $8.79. Child’s plate $2.99 to $4.59.
Payment:MasterCard, VISA, American Express and Discover accepted. Does not accept personal checks or The Californian’s Press Pass.
Dress:Casual
Amenities:Wheelchair accessible; no alcohol served; few vegetarian options.
Food:3 stars
Atmosphere:21⁄2 stars
Service:3 stars
Value:3 stars
Next week:Wings, Pizza ‘N’ Things
Owning a franchise restaurant can seem like a great deal — big name, instant credibility with customers — but there is the bite known as franchise fees. Could be 6 percent of the gross, could be more, could be less. Could pay for ad campaigns that put money in your cash register, could pay for fruitless trips, seminars and advice from clueless bigwigs in corporate headquarters who have no idea what people in Bakersfield want.
Usually, few cast off these golden handcuffs, but Clayton Hollingsead, owner of the IHOP on California Avenue (near Bakersfield High) did late last year, ditching the connection after 43 years! This was such a newsworthy event that the Nation’s Restaurant News, a leading trade publication, printed a story on it. So, has the place gone downhill without the expert IHOP kitchen developing recipes and the marketing crew whipping up creative promotions?
Hardly. It’s a small place, heavily dependent on regulars who must now adjust their eyes to a red and yellow color scheme since you can’t ditch the franchise and keep the same look. Sure the menu still has pancakes and crepes, but you can’t trademark those standbys. All I know is that I took four people to Clay’s who loved IHOP, and they wouldn’t balk at returning to this independent operation.
The thing is, going independent gives you flexibility. I don’t think I’ve seen anything on the standard IHOP menu like the omelet I ordered: the super steak omelet ($9.29), which featured 6 ounces of strip steak beef, fresh mushrooms, tomatoes, onions, green peppers, cheddar cheese and hash browns.
Everyone had a taste, and everyone said, “Wow, I’d love to order that next time.” The omelet itself had most of the ingredients mixed in with the eggs, like a scramble, really. Then it was assembled with a thin layer of hash browns on top of the eggs with the cheese before it was rolled up like a burrito. It was just a great combination of ingredients, all assembled expertly. You must order it.
My companions were saddled with an assortment of items that were adequate but just not as stunningly excellent.
One companion ordered a pancake combination that had eggs, bacon and toast. The pancakes were brown, slightly crunchy and perfectly cooked. Above IHOP, if you ask me. Another companion ordered a blintz with fruit topping ($7.29) and was a bit put off by the cheese mix inside (seemed like cream cheese mixed with another, possibly ricotta). I loved it.
Another got the Swedish crepes with lingonberries and lingonberry butter ($6.79). I briefly thought I was at IKEA in Burbank.
I made a mental note that at a nearby table the sourdough egg and ham melt ($6.89) looked like something as good as my omelet, a homemade sort of treat that I will order next time. That’s what happens when you review restaurants. You’re always looking around at other tables trying to see what you could order.
There are four different syrups at each table (regular, strawberry, boysenberry and butter pecan), and they do leave a carafe of coffee at each table so you can self-serve the refills. But those were the only IHOP touches that survived the switch.
Clay’s Restaurant can be recommended for a fine dining experience.
