Pete Tittl: Cactus Valley preserves hospitality, impressive menu
| Wednesday, Mar 04 2009 02:08 PM
Last Updated Wednesday, Mar 25 2009 06:17 PM
CACTUS VALLEY MEXICAN RESTAURANT
4215 Rosedale Highway, 633-1948
Hours open:Serving food 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Reservations recommended for parties of six or more.
Prices: Appetizers $6.95 to $9.95, soup and salad $4.49 to $10.95, combo plates $7.95 to $9.95, specialties $11.95 to $15.50, entrees $7.95 to $16.50. Child’s plate $6.95 (but free on Mondays and Thursdays with paid adult entree.).
Payment options:MasterCard, Visa, American Express and Discover accepted. Does not accept personal checks or The Californian’sPress Pass.
Dress: Casual.
Amenities:Wheelchair accessible; full bar service; some vegetarian options.
Web site:
cactusvalleymex.com
Food: 31⁄2 stars
Atmosphere:21⁄2 stars
Service:3 stars
Value:31⁄2 stars
Next week: Buck Owens’ Crystal Palace Steakhouse
It would be hard to get evidence that the economy is in trouble if you visit Cactus Valley Mexican Restaurant on a Friday night.
This comfortable old Rosedale Highway eatery had a full parking lot and an almost full dining room. We got the last booth. Despite all the competition in the northwest from newer Mexican places, this homey restaurant is still packing them in. I think that though Wayne Vaughn is currently the owner, they still follow the philosophies of former owners Sef and Mary Carrisalez. There’s an impressive essay on the front of the menu talking about how Sef started as a busboy back at the Bakersfield Inn, and how both husband and wife are former field workers. They knew they were in the hospitality business, and the current staff has that same attitude.
It’s not like they have to do that to make up for the food. One of the weekend specials recently added to the menu that is really impressive is the lobster fajitas ($18.50). A lot of restaurants have those nowadays, using langostinas and a sizzling platter. I just love the way Cactus Valley prepares them. The shellfish is mixed in with rice on the sizzling platter, and a near perfect mix of vegetables including broccoli, mushrooms, red and green peppers and onions. WOW. This was presented with a plate that had a large portion of fresh guacamole with the refried beans. Definitely a must order if you love lobster, and even though I was picking at my companion’s plate the entire time, she still had enough to take home for lunch the next day.
I had a hard time deciding what to get myself. There are many other things to choose from. I’ve always appreciated the cactus soup ($5), and the natural black bean soup ($4.50). Also good are the grilled garlic shrimp ($14), the scampi a la Mexico City ($14.50, with red chile strips, garlic and a bit of red apple cider). They also have grilled cactus ($9.95), but I never really cared for that. In the soup, fine. By itself, not enough flavor even when mixed with onions, broccoli and peppers.
I finally opted to try something I never ordered before, the enchiladas carnitas ($11.95). The two corn tortillas were not rolled like cigars but rather folded in half after being stuffed, like a taco. There was pico de gallo mixed in with the meat, it was all topped with a serviceable ranchero sauce and thankfully not too much melted cheese. Just a sprinkle. The meat inside was definitely authentic carnitas, fried crispy in some spots, soft and moist and stringy in other areas. Another item I’ll order again.
The restaurant’s ambiance will seem dark and dated to some, but my companion mentioned she appreciated how warm the place was. Not emotionally, but the temperature. That’s big on a cold and foggy weekend night. They also have a live band every Saturday night playing classic rock covers. It’s worth mentioning when businesses invest in live music nowadays, as rare as that’s becoming.
Cactus Valley can be recommended for a fine dining experience.
